Turn-Key And Nothing Happens but Lights Work | What To Do Now?

Turn-Key And Nothing Happens but Lights Work. What To Do Now?

Turn-Key And Nothing Happens but Lights Work | What To Do Now?

When your car doesn’t start, it’s a pain. Nothing happens when you turn the key or press the Start button. This has happened to almost every car owner.

Numerous things can go wrong with your car, but don’t panic; practically every problem has a remedy. It’s usually something as easy as a dead battery. You can contact your local Automotive Association or a towing company, but if you want to figure out why it won’t start, continue reading if your vehicle has a push-button start system. From the moment the key is inserted into the ignition, a few processes are involved in starting the engine. 

What is the best way to put the battery to the test?

One of the most common causes of a car not starting is a battery low on charge or entirely dead. We frequently leave the dome light on or plug something into the power outlet that drains the battery. A car’s battery will be low on the charge if it has been parked for a long time.

If the battery is old, it may suddenly stop working one day, even if it worked fine the day before. If the battery is low on charge in either situation, it will not have enough power to turn the engine over: you may hear a clicking noise, or the starter will turn extremely slowly when trying to start the engine. Here’s a quick technique to see if the battery needs to be charged:

Switch on the windshield wipers. The battery is likely low on a charge if they move very slowly, considerably slower than usual. Take a look at the light in the dome. The storm is expected to be discharged if it becomes pretty dim upon starting the engine or turning on the wipers.

The voltage of the battery can also be checked with a multimeter. At least 12.6 volts should be present in a fully charged battery. The battery gets drained if the voltage is less than 12 volts.

The battery can be recharged if it is reasonably new. Jump starting your car and letting it run for a few minutes is one approach to do this. To learn more about jump-starting, keep reading.

The battery may be entirely dead if it’s more than five years old, which means that no matter how much you charge it, it will not set, and the car will not start after you switch it off. In this instance, a new battery may be required. A malfunctioning alternator can potentially prevent the battery from charging.

The Instrument panel has no lights.

If the ignition is turned on, but no lights on the instrument panel illuminate, the battery is not receiving power. A dead battery, a loose battery terminal, a faulty ignition switch, or a blown main fuse are all possibilities. If the headlights come on, there’s an issue with the ignition switch, fuses, or the wiring between the ignition switch and the battery. The battery could be entirely dead if the headlights don’t function.

The “Key” or “Security” light stays on or flashes repeatedly

Modern cars have an immobilizer or security system that only allows the use of the correct key to start the engine.

The security code is stored on a chip inside the ignition key. A security system sensor checks the code when you put it in the ignition. When you turn on the ignition, you should notice a “Security” light come on for a brief moment before turning off. This indicates that the code in the ignition key is correct and that the vehicle can be started.

The starter will not turn over

Nothing happens when the ignition key is turned to the “Start” position, indicating that the starter motor isn’t turning the engine over. The most common reason for this is a dead battery.

After the battery has been examined, there could be several reasons why the starting will not crank. Listed below are a few examples:

  • It’s likely that the starter motor or a starter solenoid is defective; this is a common issue as mileage increases.
  • The ignition switch could be defective; this is a common problem. Behind the ignition lock mechanism lies an ignition switch, a sort of electrical switch. If starting the car by jiggling the key in the ignition helps, the ignition switch should be checked first.
  • It’s possible that the starter solenoid control wire is faulty.

It’s a regular occurrence: you turn the key to the “Start” position, but the engine refuses to start; all you hear is a single or repeated click from the engine compartment.

A weak battery or a bad connection at the battery terminals are frequently blamed. The battery cable might also rust on the inside, causing the same issue. The same symptoms can be caused by a faulty connection between the negative battery line and the engine (bad ground).

The engine cranks slowly and refuses to start

A weak or discharged battery could potentially be the problem; see the paragraph above for instructions on checking the battery. 

The starter motor armature bushings can wear out, causing the starter armature to rub against the field coils inside the beginning motor, causing the starter motor to turn slowly. 

The engine starts to slow down and then clicks

If the engine spins slowly until it simply clicks, the starter motor doesn’t have enough power to turn it over. Because only two connections (positive and negative) transmit electric power from the battery to the starter motor, this problem should be reasonably easy to identify. Once again, a faulty battery is the most prevalent cause of this problem.

A faulty starter motor might also cause this problem. A defective connection or corrosion can also cause these symptoms at the battery terminals and lousy battery cables. If the battery is old, you should consider replacing it first; a new replacement is not particularly expensive.